There are some AMAZING creators out there doing fantastic things with vase mode but those new to 3D printing sometimes struggle with getting vase mode setup and depending on the group you subscribe to the community might just say: “Well that is how you learn”, or “You much watch these 453 Youtube videos to understand”. While that is partially true, having a starter template helps. Here is my starter template, with some notes of the changes I made and why.
- Turning on “Spiralize Outer Contours” this is what is meant by “vase mode” and is the magic sauce that makes vase mode print so fast.
- Reduced layer height to .16. You can of course keep this at .2 or go up to .28 depending on how much you want the layer lines to show. I generally like .16 because even though it increases the print time it looks so good and the thin lines and warm temps make for great layer adhesion.
- Line Width – It’s set here as .4, but if you need a “strong” vase mode model then take it up to .6. A .4 nozzle can handle .6 width just fine, and that 50% more width will give you some more strength.
- Printing Temps – I turned up the printing temp 5-10 degrees over normal. since we are printing fast and potentially wide we need that extra heat to make sure all the filament melts. Otherwise you may see some under extrusion.
- Reduce Cooling to 60% and sometimes 0%. Since we are printing one big line we have time for the PLA to cool down naturally and allow for much much stronger layers. If the model is smaller keep it around 60%, if its huge, then experiment with going down as fat as 0. Some of the large trash can vase mode models can easily print with 0% fan.
- Increase Speed to 150 mm/s. Since all we are doing is outer walls the speed is only now going up to effectively 75 mm/s. Something in vase mode most calibrated printers can easily handle. If you have input shaping enabled you can likely go up to 200 or 250 without much risk.